Born in 1920, Rabbit Kekai was taken under the wing of Duke Kahanamoku at the age of 10. Duke taught him to surf when the sport was just 20 years "newly rediscovered" Rabbit would become a reigning figure in the surf world, pioneering North Shore breaks in the 30’s and 40’s, dominating surf contests world-wide in the 50’s and becoming the inspiration and style icon for a generation of well known surfer. From Miki Dora to Phil Edwards to Donald Takayama, Rabbit had an influence on many of the great surfing figures. Rabbit has been the official marshal of the Pipe Master Competition/Triple Crown event since 1971. I recently caught up with Rabbit on June 16, 2007 to talk some story.

Q: How was it surfing Oahu back in the early days?

Rabbit: We went on surfari, us kids. We went around da whole island to every spot. Those were the hanabuddah days, you know, when we were kids and had snot running down our nose. Haoles just call them snot.  We surfed everyplace from Kaena Point, the north side, down Kahuku side, around Makapu’u, around Portlock, back to Diamond Head, just to find out da spots. Surfing is big now. We were pioneers of the whole thing, from Waimea and Kaena Point around Haleiwa – that’s a good area.

Q: Did you guys actually surf Waimea back then?

Rabbit: Let me tell you something. Da Bull, all those guys brag that they were the first to surf Waimea. But I tell them, you know what I say? Dickie Cross was the first guy known to surf it, and that was in 1941. But we were surfing it in the 1930’s when we were teenagers.

Q: In the 1930’s, on those big finless boards?

Rabbit: In the 1930’s, in our times, it was the ‘hot curl’ boards – no fins, no leashes. We would get in the tube and just fly on those boards. That was the start of the ‘gun’ at Waimea, those boards. Real slick and small tail, long and streamlined, real down-the-wall kind of boards. We used to hotdog with them. Just step on the tail and bring it right around, straight up the face and hit the lip, then hang up there and come down. That how we surfed ‘em in our time. Today nobody can ride those damn things. We once had Joel Tudor, Bonga Perkins, out at a demo, all the good guys out, you know, but none of them could ride the damn thing. Then I borrowed it after, you know, and took it out was doing cutbacks, riding up and down, just hotdoggin’ the thing. Nobody could believe it.

Q: What are your earliest memories of Pipeline?

Rabbit:  We used to surf there before everybody else. But now it’s a totally different place – I hate it now – guys dropping in all the time.

Q: So times have really changed?

Rabbit: You know, Gerry Lopez was in France, at Biarritz surfing a contest, and these damn kids were dropping in on him just to get their picture taken. Can you imagine that? He wanted to kill these guys! It’s so different now, the way people act out there.      
    
But the Pipe Masters event is the grand eddie of the pro surf meet, you know? The last of the year; it’s the biggest thing you can get. I’ll be there at Pipe Masters. Been there every year from day 1. Listen to the guys on the speakers, listen for my name, they’ll announce me. Just find me, I’ll be there. No matter.

Q: What, in your opinion, is the best wave in all of Hawaii? Is it Pipeline?

Rabbit: The best wave? <laughs> It’s nonexistent now.

Q: What do you mean?

Rabbit: Bluebirds. Six or seven of us guys used to surf there. You can’t paddle there from the shore. Too far. It breaks in the steamer lanes, way offshore. We’d get a boat from Honolulu Harbor.

Q: What kind of wave was it?

Rabbit: 60-70 feet plus, that’s da kine. Before tow-ins, you know. And guess what, they interviewed three of us guys about it separately, and we all said the same thing: When we were waiting for a set, a passenger boat passed between us and the shore. The skipper looked back and couldn’t believe what he was seeing – us out there, and a big one was coming. Well, that wave broke into his boat and people were flying all over the deck and spilling off the sides. It was a real mess, what happened to them.

Q: Is that the same break as Castles?

Rabbit: Different break than Castles. Bluebirds is no more. After the hurricane, the bottom changed and the tides – its just mushy water out there now, breaking all over, sectioning.

Q: Is there anyplace in the world you can compare to Pipeline?

Rabbit: Like Pipeline? [Long pause]… Tahiti. It’s in the limelight now. Teahupo’o is sort of like Pipe. Probably heavier.

Q: Do you have any closing words for the surfing world?

Rabbit: In one word: Perfect. Keep looking for the perfect ride, and you’ll find it.  Keep riding and keep healthy. Aloha!

Waikiki, June 2007